Knitted footwear and method of making the same



E. N. JOHA KNITTED FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME A ril 25,1933. Re. 18,804

Original Filed June 6. 1952 Ihwentor Gttornegts Reissued Apr. 25, 1933BEST AVAILABLE COPY PATENT OFFICE ELMER N. JOI-LA, 0F WA'UWATOSA,WISCONSIN, ASSIGNOR TO RELIABLE KNITTING WORKS, 0F MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN,A CORPORATION OF N ISCONSIN KNITTED FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING- THESAME Original No. 1,888,172, dated November 15, 1932, Serial No.615,605, filed June 6, 1932. Application for reissue filed January 5,1933.

My invention relates to improvements in knitted footwear and methods ofmaking the same. In a companion application, Serial No. 57 9,923, filedDecember 9, 1931, for knitted foot coverings and methods of making thesame, I have disclosed a foot covering which may be manufactured from astrip of knitted fabric cut to the desired length and having zigzagselvedged side margins which are stitched together in such a manner thatthe ends of the blank form the ankle opening or top of the shoe, themiddle portion forms the sole, and the wales or ribs extend verticallyin the upper. Such blanks are cut from a continuous strip of knittedmaterial, and therefore the ends require to be covered by an ankleencircling binding. Objects of the invention herein disclosed are toprovide an improved form of knitted blank, and to also provide means forutilizing such blanks to form knitted shoes having improved toe andinstep covering portions, ankle embracing portions provided withselvedged margins, and all cut edges connected and, if desired,concealed at the heel.

Further objects are to provide a novel form of blank from which articlesof footwear may be constructed which not only have selvedged edges atthe ankle and cut ends stitched together to form the heel portions, butto provide a form of blank having zigzag portions peculiarly adapted tohave their selvedged margins connected to form shoe toes with associateduppers, having wales or ribs extending from toe to heel and obliquelyupwardly to the center line of the instep in such a manner as to utilizethe tension of the threads to the best advantage for comfort, and forpermanent conformity to the shape of the foot.

Further objects of my invention are to provide knitted footwear ofimproved shape, appearance, and durability; to provide means forreenforcing the heel and sole portions of such footwear to produce shoeshaving substantially impervious soles and continuously knitted upperswith selvedged ankle encircling margins; to provide blanks which may bemade and sold as a commercial product of knitting mills for use by shoemanu- Serial No. 650,342.

factures in the construction of footwear; and in general to providemeans whereby knitted fabrics of zigzag herringbone pattern and novelform may be utilized in the production of improved knitted footwear.

In the drawing:

Figure 1 is a view of a strip of continuously knitted fabric having oneend portion severed and constituting my improved footwear forming blank.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of the blank after its ends have beenconnected to form a heel portion.

Figure 3 is a view of the same with portions connected to form a shoetoe, and with the lower margin shaped for connection with a sole.

Figure 4 is a perspective view of a com pleted article of footwearformed by stitching together the lower selvedged margins of the blank toform a sole. 7

Figure 5 is a View of a modified form of footwear in which the lowerselvedged margins of the partially formed shoe shown in Figure 3 havebeen only partially connected,

the heel portion being left open to allow the device to he slipped overan ordinary shoe for service as a foot warmer.

Figure 6 is a side view of a shoe having a leather sole and a knittedupperformed from the blank shown in Figure 1 after it has been shapedand portions connected by stitching, as illustrated in Figure 3, thecompleted shoe being shown in Figure 6 on an enlarged scale with heeland toe portions broken away in vertical section.

Like parts are identified by the same reference characters throughoutthe several vlews.

In the manufacture of my knitted footwear blanks I knit a continuousstrip in a rack stitch of the familiar zigzag type,'but I knit thisstrip in the form of an elongated band 10 extending obliquely across thegeneral longitudinal axis of the strip, whereupon I reverse theinclination of the strip and knit a short extension 11 substantially atright angles to said band. I then again reverse the direction and knit asecond short extension 12 parallel to the hand 10, follOO lowed by athird reversal in the direction of inclination, after which I stitch asecond elongated band 13 extending obliquely across the generallongitudinal axial line of the 5 strip substantially at right angles tothe first mentioned band.

Upon completing the band 13, if additional blanks are desired, Icontinue the knitting in the same direction to produce a sec- 0nd bandmember 10 with associated zigzag extensions 11 and 12 which connect thissecond band member 10 with a second band member 13.

The second band member 10 will be inclined in the opposite directionfrom that of the first band member 10, and the second band member 13will of course be parallel to the first band member 10. The zigzagextensions will, therefore, occur alternately 0 on opposite sides of thegeneral axial line of the strip.

The knitting of these bands and their connecting zigzag extensions maythus continue indefinitely. The ends of the associated bands and theconnecting zigzag extensions form in each instance two projectingtriangular points on the outer side of the angle formed by the adjacentbands and a single centrally located triangular point at the in- 0 nerside of the angle, which is the converse of the V shaped notch betweenthe two points onthe outer side.

By making'the intermediate band strips of a length double that requiredfor the article of footwear to be formed from this knitted fabric, I amable to sever these band strips midway of their respective ends toproduce blanks having the form indicated at the left in Figure 1. Theline of severance will, of course correspond to an imaginary lineforming the junction of the members and 13. It will be observed thateach of the blanks thus formed comprises a set of band members 10 and 13disposed substantially at right angles to each other with theirconvergent ends connected by the zigzag extensions 11 and 12. Extension11 is substantially at right angles to the band member 10, and theextension 12 is substantially at right angles to the band member 13, thethreads being continuous throughout the blank and the edge margins beingselvedged except at. the cut ends of the blank.

By then connectingor stitching together the cut ends of the blank asindicated at 15 in Figure 2 andlifting the zigzag extensions 11 and 12the two triangular projections 16 and 17 may have their margins stitchedtogether to form a shoe toe, as indicated in 0 Figure 3. The portions 11and 12 will then constitute the instep covering portion of the upper,and the single triangular projection 16 will extend upwardly along theinstep to a point above the selvedged top margins 17 65 and 18 whichembrace the ankle. The oppo- BEST AVAlLABLE COPY site margins 19 and 20of the band members 10 and 13 may be turned inwardly and stitchedtogether throughout their length, as indicated in Figure 4:, or for aportion of their length from the toe backwardly, thus leaving a heelopening, as clearly shown in Figure 5. This heel portion is left open ifthe footwear is to be used as a foot warmer to he slipped over anordinary shoe. When the article is used as a foot warmer it is desirableto allow the heel of the shoe to project through the opening, as shownat A in Figure 5. T

If desired, the partially completed shoe illustrated in Figure 3 mayhave the lower margins of the members 10 and 13 secured to a sole,formed of leather or other suitable material. In that event the lowermargins of the members 10 and 13 will be slightly inturned, as indicatedin Figure 3, and secured to the upper surface of the sole 25 by anysuitable means, preferably by cementing these selvedged edges to theleather sole and covering them with an insole 26 which may also becemented to the marginal portions interposed between the insole marginsand the sole 25. A waterproof celluloidal cement will be preferred,although rubber cement may be used. The insole may also be cementeddirectly to the sole 25 in the central portion between the engagedmargins of the knitted material.

A strip 28 of any suitable material may be cemented or otherwise securedto the inner surface of the heel portion to reenforce the heel, and ifdesired, a similar strip 29 may be secured to the outer surface to coverthe stitched joint 15. Also, the instep covering portions 11 and 12 willpreferably be reenforced by lines of stitching 30 at their junctionswith the end portions 10 and 13, respectively. This stitching and alsothe reversal of the directional pitch of the ribs or wales along theselines and along the center line of the instep, which also has an elasticreenforcing effect, serve to prevent bagging and cause the footwear toconform'to the foot of the wearer.

If the knitted fabric is formed with a rib stitch the ribs will extendlongitudinally in the upper along the sides of the shoe and upwardly andinwardly from each side to the center line of the instep at the junctionof the zigzag extensions 11 and 12. The triangular upward projection atthe top of the instep will not only provide an attractive feature, butthis projection may be utilized as a pullon piece and as a means forprotecting the front of the ankle.

I claim:

1. As a new article of manufacture, a knitted blank from which tomanufacture footwear, said blank having selvedged side margins andcomprising obliquely ,pitched convergent end portions connected at theirill) ' nally and their threads being continuous with Convergent ends byrelatively short zigzag extensions forming a pair of triangular projections at the outer side of the angle formed by the end portions, witha central triangular projection at the inner side of such angle, the endportions being of substantially the length of the footwear to be formedfrom the blank, and the zigzag connecting portions being adapted to formthe instep covering portion of the upper.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a knitted blank from which toconstruct footwear, comprising elongated convergent end portions adaptedto form sides for the article of footwear, said end portions havingwales running longitudinally, and a zigzag instep covering portionhaving wales extending obliquely from each end portion to the centerline of the blank, and threads being continuous with those of the endportions.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a continuously knitted blank fromwhich to construct footwear, comprising a zigzag strip having a centralportion, the wales of which extend obliquely and divergently from thehaving zigzag wales extending upwardly from each side to the center lineof the instep, and elongated end portions adapted to form sides for thearticle of footwear, said end portions having wales runninglongitudithose of the zigzag instep covering portions, the wales of theend portions and associated instep covering portions being extended attheir junctions to form a pair of triangular projections adapted to bestitched together to form. a toe covering.

5. The process of making knitted footwear consisting in continuouslyrack knitting a blank forming strip composed of bands extendingalternately in oppositely pitched directions oblique to the generalcenter line of the strip, and comprising single bands, each ofapproximately double the desired length of the footwear, and interposedshort oppositely pitched bands of a combined area sufficient to comprisethe instep and toe portions; medially severing said long bands to formblanks having elongated end portions connected by relatively shortzigzag instep and toe covering portions; stitching the severed endstogether to form a heel and stitching the oblique margins of the toecovering portions together to form a toe; and then connecting the lowerselvedged edges of the relatively long bands to form a sole.

BEST AVAILABLE COPY 6. The process of making knitted footwear consistingin rack knitting a blank having elongated end portions converging in onedirection and connected at their covergent ends by relatively shortportions having wales obliquely pitched in opposite directions in therespective portions, and with the walesof each central portion pitchedin a direction opposite to that of the wales in the associated endportion, whereby the central portion of the blank is provided with twotriangular projections on the outer side of the angle formed by the endportions and a single central triangular projection on the inner side ofsuch angle, then connecting the other ends of said end portions to forma heel and stitching together the selvedged margins of said pair oftriangular projections to form a toe.

7 The process of making knitted footwear consisting in rack knitting ablank having elongated end portions converging in one direction andconnected at their convergent ends by relatively short portions havingwales obliquely pitched in opposite directions in the respectiveportions, and with the .wales of each central portion pitched in adirection opposite to that of the wales in the associated end portion,whereby the central portion of the blank is provided with two triangularprojections on the outer side of the angle formed by the end portionsand a single central triangular projection on the inner side of suchangle, then connecting the other ends of said end portions to form aheel, stitching together the selvedged margins of said pair oftriangular projections to form a toe and inserting a reenforcing threadalong the junction lines of the end portions with the relatively shortzigzag central portions.

8. Knitted footwear having selvedged ankle embracing portions, an instepcover ing portion having wales pitched in opposite directions from acenter line, andiside portions having Wales continuous with the zigzaginstep covering portion and extending parallel to the selvedged ankleencasing margin, said side portions having their ends connected to forma heel.

9. Knitted footwear comprising an instep covering portion having walespitched in opposite directions from a center line and side portionshaving wales extending longitudinally, said side portions beingconnected with each other at the heel and having selvedged instepembracing margins.

10. Knitted footwear comprising an instep covering portion having walespitched in oposite directions from a center line and side portionshaving wales extending longitudinally, said side portions beingconnected with each other at the heel and having selvedged instepembracing margins, and an auxiliary reenforcing thread extending alongthe junction lines of the instep covering portions with said sideportions.

11. Knitted footwear comprising continuously knitted instep coveringportions and side portions having wales pitched in opposite directionswith the wales in the instep covering portions extending downwardly andforwardly from a center line, with the outer margins selvedged andstitched together to .form a toe, composed in part of such portions andin part of the associated ends of the side portions, said side portionshaving their-opposite ends connected at the heel with their upperselvedged edges forming an ankle embracing margin for thefoot wear, andtheir lower selvedged edges connected to form a sole. 1

12. Knitted footwear having wales extending longitudinally in the sideportionsand in the lower portions of the toe and convergently upwardlyin the upper part of the toe portions and instep covering portions tothe center line of the instep, said knitted portions of the footwearhaving selvedged top and bottom margins.

13. Knitted footwear of the shoe or slipper type having longitudinallyextending wales in the side portions, connected across the toe andinstep by wales extending at an angle to those in the side portions fromthe point of the toe to the ankle encircling margin, and havingselvedged margins at the ankle and along the sole, said toe and instepcovering wales being continuous with the sidewales along lines ofdeflection extending from the angle embracing selvedged margins to theselvedged sole margins.

14. Knitted footwear of the shoe or slipper type, composed of knittedbands, the wales of which extend longitudinally in the side portions andhave transverse continuations in the top of the toe and instep portions,with the side portions of said bands selvedged and forming ankleembracing and sole portions.

15. Knitted footwear composed of knitted rib stitched bands, havingselvedged ankle and sole margins, said bands having wales which extendlongitudinally in the side portions, with abrupt bends at the sides ofthe toe and instep portions, said wales extending transversely acrossthe toe and instep portions along lines which are also oblique withreference to the center line of the toe and instep.

L6. Knitted footwear having a selvedged ankle embracing margin, thesides and instep covering portions being continuously knit-' ted, withan abrupt deflection of the wales at the. junctions of the side portionswith those of the instep covering portion, along lines extending fromsaid selvedged margin forwardly and downwardly to the sole in thevicinity of the toe.

17. Knitted footwear, the instep'and toe portions of which haveselvedged margins at the angle and along the toe portion of the-sole,

BEST AVAILABLE COPY ankle embracing margin to the sole at the respectivesides of the toe.

ELMER N; JOHA.

